Relayinator Top
| Info | |
|---|---|
| Download: | Sketchup STL |
| Print time | 06h 43m 23s |
| Filament used | 25.22m |
| Filament cost | $1.43 |
| Quantity | 1 |
| Prototypes | 3 |
This part mates with the bottom to cover the 8 relay ESP32 board. One of the things I wanted to do for this part was to make it so the top could be removed while the board and associated electronics stay mounted. For that to work, the parts that interface with the electronics and the wires had to be on the bottom model. At the least, this meant the panel to which the plugs attach couldn’t be part of the top model. The trick was to have the front and back panels slot in to receiving notches the height of the cover model and to make the cover model only cover up the top and two sides. Knowing I wanted to mount a small OLED screen to display statuses, a cutout was placed so as to not allow those wires or electronics to interfere with the relay board itself. The relays are relatively tall so I knew the OLED could not be mounted above them without raising the overall height of the model (which wastes time and filament!)
This part came together pretty easily with only three prototypes. The adjustments between the prototypes were mostly to fine tune the dimensions, which makes sense since both the top and bottom are designed to mate together (as in: I had all of the required dimensions up front). On the first iteration, I didnt’ quite think through how to mount the OLED to the cover which was an obvious gap during test fitting. A hole with nothing to notch into or index from made it difficult to position the OLED at all. To remedy this, I added mounting studs that would locate the OLED exactly where it needed to be, but this design ultimately failed because of how weak a small vertical piece would be.
When I did the last fitment of the first version of Relayinator, I just melted some extra filament onto the board and the cover which did fine to make the mounting strong enough. Unfortunately, I forgot all about this when I had to rejigger the bottom to include static power ports and relay-controlled power ports, which required a reprint of both the top and bottom. In retrospect, adding standoffs for some small M2 screws to bite into from the underside like the LCD HDMI screens would have worked quite nicely.
Wireframe: Edges: Autorotate: